Does your Jacket Fit?
Every man wants his jacket to fit. But what exactly does “the right fit” mean? In my experience, preference typically depends on the person’s age. Big surprise. Thankfully, there are some universal truths. Here are my top 3 Signs of a Good Jacket Fit:
The Top Button. When the top button is buttoned, the fabric should not be so tight your button is about to pop off, OR so loose you could squeeze another person inside. I typically see too-tight jackets, even as older gentlemen strive to stay “in” with the times. The fabric should rest on both sides of the button with ease while still showing off your shape. No pulling required to achieve this goal. Tight jackets reminds me of the comedy show Ted Lasso where Coach Nate is seen in a light gray suit that is so tight I fear his top button will pop off at any moment! Don’t be like Coach Nate.
The Sleeve Length. If the coat sleeve cups in your palm, it is most definitely too long. If your entire shirt cuff is visible, it is most definitely too short. Typical guidelines look for about 1/2'’ of shirt cuff peeping out of your coat sleeve.
Coat Length. This detail goes in and out of fashion trends, but what I can tell you is at the end of the day, everyone wants their clothes to flatter them. I’ve found that keeping in mind your height and body shape while choosing a coat length will yield the best results. A man who is 5’7 in a longer fitting coat will appear shorter than he is. A 6’5 man in a shortened coat would look like he was all legs and no torso.
The trend in the last decade was to wear jackets SO tight that there’s no possible way it was comfortable at all. Sports announcers on TV wore jackets that look like they are jammed up their armpits like tissues, “horned” off their shoulders or biceps bulging out of their coat sleeves. You know what I’m talking about. If you’re one of those guys that has a prominent chest/biceps/back or if you have an athletic build that requires tapering in the mid-section and room in the chest and shoulders, you need to be buying custom clothes. Period. It’s futile for men with these features to shop off the rack.
One of the biggest reasons my clients shop with me is because of fit issues. Finding clothes in the store that you like is hard enough. Adding fit requirements and preferences to the equation just makes it even more challenging and frustrating. I mentioned folks who have an athletic build, but it is still challenging for my stout, portly, or slender clients to find the right fit as well. Do you think the fit of your jackets makes the cut? So to speak 😊
More on pants and shirts to follow. Stay tuned.
In the meantime, contact me to learn more about how I can help when it comes to jacket fit: margo@bethemanllc.com
